Of Gurgling Rivers, Snow-Capped Mountains, and Scenic Splendour -Pahalgam

Part 2 of my travel diary to Kashmir starts here. 

Day 3

We left Srinagar after our boat ride on Dal Lake, stopped at Pulwama for a quick lunch, then proceeded on national highway towards Pahalgam.

Passing some pretty villages and oh-so-picturesque spots on the road, we travelled on till the air became distinctly chillier and the snow thicker on peaks.

We reached at 8.30, and the inky blue skies revealed icy peaks all around. The river Lidder was running along, and our guest house was situated a stone's throw away.

That meant that it was really COLD! Yes, Pahalgam is situated on a higher plane, and is a good 6-7 degrees lower in temperature than crowded Srinagar. At nights, the temperature drops to 3 even in peak summer!

A recent snowfall had caused the chill to increase, and we rushed to our room for warmth of a heater. Unfortunately, power being a problem, there was no room heater. Electric mattresses were fitted on the bed, that took their own sweet time to warm up. The rooms were cosy, and the house-owner, Muzzaffar bhai was very welcoming. He treated us to some "Nun Chai", a salty beverage with butter infused to beat the cold.

Wrapping up the day with an early dinner, we dozed off. I had forgotten to switch off the electric mattress and by midnight the bed was burning literally! Talk about temperature fluctuations!  Switched it off hastily, but sleep was fitful in the now-hot, now-cold ambience.

Day 4

The next morning, however, our room was flooded with bright sunshine, signaling a sunny day.

Though a chilly wind was blowing, the sun was strong, and unfolded the brilliant scenery around us. Lush green pines, the gurgling white river, brown horses trotting along, and the white peaks of the Pir Pinjal range glowing in the sunshine, it was a scene out of a movie indeed.

Our guest house had a sit-in area in the lawn, that was ideal for sun-bathing. Delightfully, we saw some chicks following their mother hen in search of food.

Ideal bucolic setting! We made friends with the cute toddler present in the owner's house. Morning went off happily soaking sunlight and playing with her.

However, an unpleasant surprise lay in store for us that noon. Power went off, and the bathroom geysers stopped functioning. Now, we are Bongs - severely allergic to cold. Taking a bath in the icy cold water was a torture indeed.

Shivering from the cold that seeped to the bones, we had lunch outdoors. My plan that day was to pose in a saree at the famous Aru or Betaab Valley. We started off at 4, swaddled in woolens, in a hired Omni car. 

Betaab valley we saw from the outside, as going inside would take us another hour. As it was, it was getting late to reach Aru valley - which our driver promised us, was more picturesque. 

The much hyped Betaab valley - named so after a Bollywood blockbuster shot here, looked more like an amusement park with rides and a man-made lake. Definitely good for films and all, but not for natural beauty lovers like us. 

Aru valley took an hour and half to reach, and it turned out over-hyped too.

Crowded with tourists, and lined with shops selling shawls, trinkets, purses, and sundry touristy things, Aru valley was picturesque all right, but more in a panoramic scenery way.

The chilly winds  were literally freezing our bones, and after taking some clicks in the valley, we made a hasty retreat. We saw many tourists posing, dressed as Kashmiris in their rented pherans and headgear. Somehow, the place was too touristy for our liking.

On our way back, we made a stop at a cute, gushing stream - set amidst towering pines and snow clad peaks, that just looked like it came out of a picture book.

The rocks made for a great place for posing for some more pictures. 

Ahh, Kashmir, you are picture-perfect everywhere we look! The journey back was uneventful, and we fled into our rooms to escape the dip in temperature. By now, the cold had got to us, and our appetite was low. Somehow, dinner was finished and we tucked in.

Day 5

Next day, we were to return to Srinagar for a houseboat stay. Since one of us was lain low by health problems, it took more time than usual to pack up and start. 

We decided to take it easy, and spend morning and early noon at the guest house itself. A short walk to the nearby viewpoint, next to the Lidder river, was more breathtaking than all the valleys combined.

In reality, beauty lies in hidden nooks and corners, not in the overhyped "points" that are must-dos in a tourist's itinerary. 

By the time we reached Nigeen Lake in Srinagar, it was dark. Our houseboat was a grand one - with carved wooden panels, well-decorated interiors, a swanky living room, two pretty bedrooms, and a beautiful sit-out in front.

We were too exhausted to enjoy it that day though. 

Dinner was simple - a mixed veg curry, kebab curry and rotis. A good night's sleep was what we badly needed.

Day 6

The pristine beauty of Nigeen Lake revealed itself to us in the morning. Chai on the settee in the porch , overlooking the river, with floating shikaras visiting us, was a different experience altogether. 

Wish people left us to our own a little more, though.

Though we would have preferred solitude, shikara owners, selling everything from handicrafts to jewellery to clothing bombarded us with their visits to our houseboat and ensuing shop-talk. I understand people buy mementos to carry back, but continuously being approached by sales people put us off a bit.

The walkway towards the entrance was abloom with gorgeous roses and petunia, all bright in the morning sunshine.  

The temperature here was much warmer, compared to Pahalgam. We hardly needed any wraps or pullovers.

Finally, our journey was nearing an end. We had to leave for the airport. On the way, thought of sampling the famous Gushtaba and Nadru curry of Kashmiri cuisine.

Somehow, both were a bit too sour for our liking. The Rogan Josh was tasty but the meat hard. Maybe we needed authentic fare cooked by a home cook rather than restaurant food.

It was nearing dusk when we neared the airport. Kashmir being a high-security airport, we had to go through several checkpoints.

A bit sadly, we bid this paradise a reluctant goodbye. However,  there was another surprise in store. As we flew over the borders, the entire snow clad range was almost at leaping distance! What an incredible sight!

Peak after peak shining in the dusk sunlight, bid us farewell. 

Till next time, adieu paradise....

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